The Sketchy Domain

The Artwork of Syphron, Getsketchy and of course Randall M. Middleton, Me!!

mari-m-blog:

there.

;______;

Be kind, please T___T

Hope you like it.

*runs back to her hole in panic*

this ^^ should be a movie or short or both somewnere

(via jtdrift)

happymonsters:

me everyday since i was born

me but the last cycle ends at 5-6am…..^—————-^

happymonsters:

me everyday since i was born

me but the last cycle ends at 5-6am…..^—————-^

(via yark-wark)

mimiblargh:

super excited for smash 4

also still playing the FFs

FCCKK spoiled…..meh lol

(via yark-wark)

mbt1991:

lancerbuck:

duez:

gatorfox:

rakeeshsorrel:

ashashi-corner:

HE DID NOT GET ROB PAULSEN TO DO THIS

HE DID NOT

NOSTALGIA CRITIC HOW—!!!

YES

Oh my god.  My childhood.  It’s……….yes.

XD I can’t not re-blog this oh my god

Huh, I don’t remember this for some  reason! Maybe there’s some old stuff I just never watched? Fun to see though, hard to believe the VAs did it. XD

ARE YOU FUCKING SERIOUS RIGHT NOW?! XD

My buddy kaiko-art animated this brilliant piece of animation. For me it’s not the fact that Doug got Rob Paulsen and Moe LaMarche to reprise their roles. The thing that got me was the fact that Doug noticed my friends work and is using it to it’s fullest advantage. 

(Source: saraarp, via yark-wark)

duckubus asked: Artsy question here, and sorry to bother, but I"m trying to get a better handle on shading, and I just saw your Chun Li pic, so here's my question: You used a lot of white highlights on the left side of her body, and not very many on the right. But based on the shading on her face, it looks like the light source is coming from the right and not the left? I was curious how you came to that decision (because it looks great! I just know nothing about shading and I'm a bit confused!) Can you help?

robscorner:

Sure! Now granted this was a quick illustration and I didn’t 100% follow proper lighting in this, but it’s still accurate (somewhat).

image

I went into coloring this with a “well-lit room” mentality, where it’s spacious lighting all around: subtle tones, not a lot of contrast, etc. I basically had three light sources, one coming sorta angled from the left, one coming directly facing and downward from the top, and the last coming angled from the right, sorta-kinda behind her. 

The reason you’re getting confused as to why I didn’t light the left side of the face as much is because her arm/hand is blocking the light coming from the left, that’s all!

Again, it’s not 100% accurate and is stylized as it was a quickie, but that’s basically the reason. 

Hope that helps!

Awesome ink works by Kim Jung Gi

how da fck….? OMG AMAZING DETAIL IN SUCH A SMALL MEDIUM!

(Source: rialxoan, via inkydonkey)

Digital Art Tip: Resolution Dependence

robscorner:

erikmcclure:

robscorner:

I get the question often as to what size canvas I draw on. I’ve answered in responses to explain the basics numerous times, but I’m going to write a bit more detailed response so all can understand and reference.

image

(I’ll use my Dirty Pair piece as the guinea pig for this…


Pixels don’t work like this.

What was mentioned here actually does work, but for completely different reasons. The larger the image is, the more difficult it is for the computer to handle. If your picture is too big, windows will flip out and you’ll get lag on your tablet, which makes things harder to draw. In addition, at high DPIs, the effective brush size keeps going up. If your brush size is too large, the computer can’t process all the pixels fast enough (usually due to RAM transfer speeds), and you will get lag, which makes it harder to draw smooth lines.

It has nothing to do with “drawing distance,” unless you’re actually zooming in to 100%, in which case the advice you should really follow is “don’t zoom in that much”. It’s just a technological limitation - if you’re computer can’t handle your effective brush size, lower the DPI. If it can, raise the DPI. That’s it. The technique outlined is useful if you can’t afford to draw at a DPI you prefer, but you can’t get back lost information. You should always draw at the highest DPI your computer can handle smoothly, which will change if you upgrade your computer. It has nothing to do with “drawing distance”. If we had computers that operated at the speed of light, you’d be able to get lines that look just as smooth at 10000000 DPI.

That said, the sharpening technique here does work when your technology limits you to a low DPI, but I want to make sure everyone understands that this is simply a workaround for insufficient computational power, not some law of digital art.

I have 64GB of RAM, so this isn’t about computational power at all. 

On a moderate computer, (which is basically anything you can pick up at a store for a reasonable price) you don’t get lag when you’re drawing at a high resolution (unless you’re running a crap ton of software while arting). You are working with more distance. if you increase an 5x5 image by two, you are essentially making the image 10x10. Drawing the same curve at the same zoom ratio takes much more care in the 10x10 document than in the 5x5 document because you are working with more pixels; I bet on that with confidence. I draw fast and I’ve tested this countless times over the course of 5 years. There is a difference.

(No one said this is “law”, it’s just a different process. You don’t have to shoot it down like it is. I’ve churned out professional-grade illustrations with this method and it’s very effective. Or else I wouldn’t have written this or one would only see half the amount of art that I produce efficiently in my galleries. It takes more effort and time to draw at a larger resolution. That’s a fact. Don’t make a false claim stating “pixels don’t work like this” when they do, especially when I have the experience firsthand to back it.)

If you make an illustration in 8.5x11 inches at 150 DPI and print the document on an 8.5x11 inch piece of paper, there will be no difference in quality as if you’ve done it in 72 DPI because the measurements are the same. It will come out exactly as you draw it on the screen:

The above gif is the same real-world sized document. One is 72DPI, the other is 150DPI. The zoom is at Print Size, which is the result and end-all of what you need to worry about. The line in the middle is the drawn line. There is literally no difference between the 4px brush with the 8px brush. If you print the 72DPI one on an 8.5x11 piece of paper, it will print out exactly the same as the 150DPI one. The viewer will not be able to tell the difference. Now if you take this document and try to print on an 11x17 piece of paper, THEN you will have problems.

As long as your document size is whatever you are going to intend to do with the image, you are fine, as long as you don’t work lower than 72DPI, because then that would be asinine and there aren’t any brushes that can work and divide well at a decent quality. If you’re planning on having a lot of detail in an image, then draw a bit more high resolution. If I have to do a huge composition with a ton of characters, then I’d draw in 200DPI because I can zoom in and work more detailed than I can in 100DPI, but the basic simple illustration does not require that high of a res. I count on it. Even the sharpening trick is just added insurance, but it’s not necessarily needed.

Very insightful my friend now if only we were as half as good  as you…LOL thx for the tips;)